I start my journey to Koh Chang island, Thailand, at London Waterloo. Stepping on to the Eurostar to Brussels, knowing that I am about to travel 8,000 miles overland, feels mind-blowingly epic. At Brussels, I connect to another high-speed service that gets me to Cologne later in the evening. I have a couple of hours to while away in Cologne HauptBahnhof before embarking on the 36-hour service to Moscow. It is not a bad place to be killing time; there is a cathedral outside and a food mall downstairs.
When I board the train to Moscow, a burly Russian conductor shows me to my three-berth couchette. This train feels alien, as if I am in another country already. In the early hours of the morning, a young German mother and her two small children join me in the couchette, and a couple of hours later we are woken by a thunderous banging on the door: Polish border control.
I have a mad scramble for my passport and a torch in my face before I once again try to sleep. It is stuffy with four of us in the couchette.
[Read on, and Part 2 here]
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