09 fevereiro 2006

In praise of... corks

Quercus suber is among the noblest of trees and not just because this oak has traditionally produced corks for wine bottles the world over. But the cork oak's bark can only be harvested every ten years and it can take up to 50 before the outer bark is ready for its first cutting. Cork, like wine, needs patience, so it is impossible to suddenly boost supply.

But patience is now running out in Portugal, the world's main cork producer. Increasing competition from modern alternatives like plastic tops, synthetic stoppers and, dare one mention it, screwcaps is hurting the Portuguese economy as well as removing a little magic from wine drinking as surely as a corkscrew does with a cork.

Even the prestigious Wine Society dispatches wine in screwtop bottles these days. So now there is a fightback on behalf of the environmentally friendly cork, none of whose supposed defects such as "cork taint" cannot be dealt with by modern methods. Leading the fight is José Mourinho, Chelsea's Portuguese coach who has been chosen to spearhead a Portuguese government campaign.

The Special One has been chosen because he is "sophisticated and appeals to the wine consumer". We wish him well in his part-time job - though doubtless Arsene Wenger and Sir Alex Ferguson will hope it expands into a fulltime one. But if Mr Mourinho can revive the cork as he has revived Chelsea the celebrations will be sincere - and accompanied by that time-honoured, irreplaceable popping that is special to corks.

The Guardian

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