It used to be that the most travelers saw of Portugal was what they glimpsed out of an airplane window or a rearview mirror as they skittered across tarmacs or caromed down mountain roads on their way to their final vacation destinations in the Mediterranean or northern Africa. For years, Portugal was Europe's great refueling station. But during the past two decades, foreigners, especially those with gastronomic inclinations, have been lingering, extending vacations, sometimes even canceling plans, to stay within Portugal's borders.
And for good reason.
Ever since the recent Spanish culinary explosion, led by the lionized Ferran Adrià (chef and wizard of El Bulli on the Catalan coast), eyes have been trained on Iberia. It was only a matter of time, the Portuguese knew, before glances would start wandering over the border to discover the pleasures of comida Portuguesa. One perk of Portugal's becoming a card-carrying EU member was that highways were built to connect remote regions and treacherous dirt roads were paved, creating an infrastructure that welcomes tourists without spoiling the country's natural beauty. As travelers wander into Portugal's 11 historical mainland regions — along with Madeira and the Azorean islands — they discover a country no bigger than the state of Indiana that nonetheless encompasses a staggering number of microclimates and terrains. These conditions conspire to create some of Iberia's finest artisanal foods and regional specialties. Add to this mix a coterie of talented young chefs and restaurateurs, and you've got a country that's ready to steal the spotlight.
Trends and ingredients
Portuguese staples include New World imports such as corn, tomatoes, potatoes, chiles, and peppers. Other key ingredients in Portuguese cuisine include the ubiquitous bacalhau (dried salt cod), which the Portuguese are said to have 365 ways of preparing, plus fresh fish and seafood — from swordfish and lamprey to caracois (snails) and perceves (gooseneck barnacles). Musky black olives are served as snacks and feature prominently in oil-based dishes. Rice, too, is important, and the Portuguese eat more of it than do the citizens of any other European country.
Pork also plays a sizable role in the Portuguese diet, even more so than beef. At the top of the pork pyramid is the prized porco preto (black pig) of the Alentejo, which grazes on fallen acorns from cork trees, which some say makes for its sweet taste. Following right behind porco preto is presunto (ham that has been dry-cured in a coating of salt, paprika, garlic, and red or white wine, and then deeply smoked) and a dizzying collection of dry-cured, smoked sausages that include chouriço, made from pork, red-pepper paste, wine, garlic, and herbs; linguica (a thinner version of chouriço); the squat, lean salpiçao (a smoked sausage made from pork tenderloin that's been marinated in white wine, garlic, and spices); morcela (blood sausage); farinheira (made from pork, wine, garlic, orange juice, and flour); and the lighter alheira, a variety that was originally made from only game and poultry but now occasionally contains some pork.
Rarely is a Portuguese home without some sort of cheese, whether it be the simple queijo fresco, a soft, white creamy cheese that nearly every cook makes, or one of the world-class varieties such as Beira Alta's Queijo de Serra, the Alentejo's luscious Serpa, buttery Beja or piquant Évora, or the Azores' Cheddar-like São Jorge. And nothing goes better with Portuguese cheese than Portuguese wine, from the Minho's red and white vinho verdes, or "green wines," to Douro's ports.
No ingredient is more prized or more pressed into service in Portugal than the egg. It appears in nearly every course but shines in desserts. Sometimes literally. The product of monasteries and convents, egg and egg-yolk desserts are a hallmark of Portuguese cuisine.
Making your way through Portugal
While Portugal may seem small compared to some of the big European countries, it is full of diverse subcuisines and cultures. The six regional breakdowns outlined here offer enough information to explore just one area or to string together several for a more comprehensive trip. We've chosen only those regions that are neither overly touristy nor too remote, so you can make the most of your visit.
MINHO
TRÁS OS MONTES E ALTO DOURO
DOURO LITORAL
BEIRA LITORAL
ESTREMADURA
And for good reason.
Ever since the recent Spanish culinary explosion, led by the lionized Ferran Adrià (chef and wizard of El Bulli on the Catalan coast), eyes have been trained on Iberia. It was only a matter of time, the Portuguese knew, before glances would start wandering over the border to discover the pleasures of comida Portuguesa. One perk of Portugal's becoming a card-carrying EU member was that highways were built to connect remote regions and treacherous dirt roads were paved, creating an infrastructure that welcomes tourists without spoiling the country's natural beauty. As travelers wander into Portugal's 11 historical mainland regions — along with Madeira and the Azorean islands — they discover a country no bigger than the state of Indiana that nonetheless encompasses a staggering number of microclimates and terrains. These conditions conspire to create some of Iberia's finest artisanal foods and regional specialties. Add to this mix a coterie of talented young chefs and restaurateurs, and you've got a country that's ready to steal the spotlight.
Trends and ingredients
Portuguese staples include New World imports such as corn, tomatoes, potatoes, chiles, and peppers. Other key ingredients in Portuguese cuisine include the ubiquitous bacalhau (dried salt cod), which the Portuguese are said to have 365 ways of preparing, plus fresh fish and seafood — from swordfish and lamprey to caracois (snails) and perceves (gooseneck barnacles). Musky black olives are served as snacks and feature prominently in oil-based dishes. Rice, too, is important, and the Portuguese eat more of it than do the citizens of any other European country.
Pork also plays a sizable role in the Portuguese diet, even more so than beef. At the top of the pork pyramid is the prized porco preto (black pig) of the Alentejo, which grazes on fallen acorns from cork trees, which some say makes for its sweet taste. Following right behind porco preto is presunto (ham that has been dry-cured in a coating of salt, paprika, garlic, and red or white wine, and then deeply smoked) and a dizzying collection of dry-cured, smoked sausages that include chouriço, made from pork, red-pepper paste, wine, garlic, and herbs; linguica (a thinner version of chouriço); the squat, lean salpiçao (a smoked sausage made from pork tenderloin that's been marinated in white wine, garlic, and spices); morcela (blood sausage); farinheira (made from pork, wine, garlic, orange juice, and flour); and the lighter alheira, a variety that was originally made from only game and poultry but now occasionally contains some pork.
Rarely is a Portuguese home without some sort of cheese, whether it be the simple queijo fresco, a soft, white creamy cheese that nearly every cook makes, or one of the world-class varieties such as Beira Alta's Queijo de Serra, the Alentejo's luscious Serpa, buttery Beja or piquant Évora, or the Azores' Cheddar-like São Jorge. And nothing goes better with Portuguese cheese than Portuguese wine, from the Minho's red and white vinho verdes, or "green wines," to Douro's ports.
No ingredient is more prized or more pressed into service in Portugal than the egg. It appears in nearly every course but shines in desserts. Sometimes literally. The product of monasteries and convents, egg and egg-yolk desserts are a hallmark of Portuguese cuisine.
Making your way through Portugal
While Portugal may seem small compared to some of the big European countries, it is full of diverse subcuisines and cultures. The six regional breakdowns outlined here offer enough information to explore just one area or to string together several for a more comprehensive trip. We've chosen only those regions that are neither overly touristy nor too remote, so you can make the most of your visit.
MINHO
TRÁS OS MONTES E ALTO DOURO
DOURO LITORAL
BEIRA LITORAL
ESTREMADURA
Sem comentários:
Enviar um comentário