Shaving is an ancient art, but is one that many men simply fail to master. Kamil Ozturk, the barber who taught Johnny Depp to use a razor in preparation for his role in Sweeney Todd, reveals the tricks to a perfect shave
The barber’s art is thought to date back many thousands of years with relics resembling razors having been found as early as 3,500 BC. And though throughout the centuries short-cropped facial hair has gained and lost favour many times over, the art of shaving has endured. But it is an art that many men simply fail to master. So what are the steps involved in a good shave? And what are some of the most common mistakes men make?
Geo F Trumper is the longest continuous barber in London dating back to 1875. The current Head Barber, Kamil Ozturk has 24 years of experience to his name and counts among his pupils Johnny Depp, who, in preparation for his role in Tim Burton’s new cinematic adaptation of Steven Sondheim’s Sweeney Todd, came to Trumper’s to learn how to wield an open razor.
“Depp was very shy,” says Ozturk, “and a very serious student.”
Johnny Depp learnt the basic techniques in a single day of tuition, in a course Trumper’s runs to help men learn more about personal grooming. The barber also sells a range of men's products and accessories including shaving creams and soaps, aftershave balms, moisturisers and razors. All of which combine to form the basic arsenal for a perfect shave. The Trumper's technique follows a straighforward five step program.
1. Wash the face with hot water or apply a warm towel.
2. Prepare the face with a glycerine based gel, moisturiser or ‘skin food’ massaging against the grain of the beard to help lift the hairs in preparation for the shave.
3. Lather the face with shaving cream which may be rubbed into the beard with the fingers or a shaving brush. When using cream, place a modest amount in the palm of one hand, dip the brush into hot water and using a circular motion in the palm, build up a rich creamy lather on the brush. Wet the face, and again with a circular motion apply the lather to the beard, allowing the brush to lift the hairs.
4. Shave using a good blade that has been warmed in the sink or under hot running water, shave the face in the direction of the beard growth, rinsing the blade in hot water frequently. Never shave against the grain of the beard and always use short strokes keeping the blade perfectly horizontal, not turning as it moves around the face. Rinse the face thoroughly with cool water and pat dry with a soft towel.
5. Use an after-shave moisturiser. Products containing alcohol should not be applied to the skin directly after shaving as this may inflame the skin and cause dryness. For best results cologne and other fragrances should be applied behind the earlobes and on the sides of the neck not directly to the area that has been shaved.
General shaving tips
- Never pluck ingrown hairs with tweezers, as this will only break them, never extract the hair in its entirety. Rather push the hair out with a needle and then shave over it as normal. Within 6 weeks it should have gone back to normal.
- Shower or bathe before shaving, or warm the face with a hot flannel.
- Use plenty of hot water and shave in a warm environment.
- Brush in a circular motion to lift the beard.
- Shave with the beard, never against the grain.
- Rinse the blade frequently in hot water.
- Rinse face well with cool water and gently pat dry.
- After shaving use a moisturiser or skin food.
- Avoid applying alcohol-based products to the face after shaving.
- After shaving, rinse your brush and razor thoroughly to remove soap and flick to remove most of the water.
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