Kitchen Confidential

Even chefs who were loath to admit professional shortcuts were more forthcoming about their personal habits. Dickerman finds "pretty much any Japanese or Spanish canned good quite acceptable." Legras, whose wife is Japanese, said they take advantage of packaged Japanese goods like pickled vegetables. Charles Phan of the Slanted Door relies on dried seafood like shrimp and squid to enhance soups and other dishes. Chef Tom Colicchio also recommends jarred Spanish products, such as roasted red peppers. Spanish chef José Andrés uses fresh tubers in Jaleo's tortilla de patatas, but he subs in potato chips at home.

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