When 16th-Century Portuguese came to Japan, they brought a special dish
with them. Today, in Japan, it’s called tempura and has been a staple of
the country’s cuisine ever since.
In 1543, a Chinese ship with three Portuguese sailors on board was
headed to Macau, but was swept off course and ended up on the Japanese
island of Tanegashima. Antonio da Mota, Francisco Zeimoto and Antonio
Peixoto – the first Europeans to ever step on Japanese soil – were
deemed ‘southern barbarians’ by the locals because of the direction from
which they came and their ‘unusual’, non-Japanese features. The
Japanese were in the middle of a civil war and eventually began trading
with the Portuguese, in general, for guns. And thus began a Portuguese
trading post in Japan, starting with firearms and then other items such
as soap, tobacco, wool and even recipes.
The Portuguese remained in Japan until 1639, when they were banished
because the ruling shogun Iemitsu believed Christianity was a threat to
Japanese society. As their ships sailed away for the final time, the
Portuguese left an indelible mark on the island: a battered and fried
green bean recipe called peixinhos da horta. Today, in Japan, it’s called tempura and has been a staple of the country’s cuisine ever since.
However, peixinhos da horta was only one of many dishes the Portuguese
inspired around the world. In fact, Portuguese cuisine, still heavily
overshadowed by the cuisines of Italy, Spain and France, may be the most
influential cuisine on the planet.
When the Portuguese turned up in Goa, India, where they stayed until 1961, they cooked a garlicky, wine-spiked pork dish called carne de vinha d’alhos,
which was adopted by locals to become vindaloo, one of the most popular
Indian dishes today. In Malaysia, several staples, including the spicy
stew debal, hail from Portuguese traders of centuries past. Egg
tarts in Macao and southern China are direct descendants to the egg
tarts found in Lisbon bakeries. And Brazil’s national dish, feijoada,
a stew with beans and pork, has its origins in the northern Portuguese
region of Minho; today, you can find variations of it everywhere the
Portuguese have sailed, including Goa, Mozambique, Angola, Macau and
Cape Verde.
Peixinhos da horta were often eaten during Lent or Ember days (the word ‘tempura’ comes from the Latin word tempora, a term referring to these times of fasting), when the church dictated that Catholics go meatless.
Perhaps not constricted by tradition, the Japanese lightened the batter
and changed up the fillings. Today, everything from shrimp to sweet
potatoes to shitake mushrooms is turned into tempura.